Blue light impairs the repair of UVB-induced pyrimidine dimers in a human skin model.

In recent years, interest is growing in the biological cutaneous effects of high-energy visible light (400-450 nm). In the present study, we explored the impact of blue light (BL) on the repair of pyrimidine dimers, the major class of premutagenic DNA damage induced by exposure to sunlight. We unambiguously demonstrate that the exposure of in vitro reconstructed human epidermis to environmentally relevant doses of BL strongly decreases the rate of repair of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and pyrimidine (6-4) pyrimidone photoproducts induced by a subsequent UVB irradiation. Using the highly sensitive and specific liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry assay, we did not observe induction of pyrimidine dimers by BL alone. Finally, we showed that application, during the BL exposure step, of a formula containing a new filter, named TriAsorB and affording BL photoprotection, prevented the decrease in DNA repair efficiency. These results emphasize the potential deleterious effects of BL on DNA repair and the interest in providing adequate skin protection against this wavelength range of sunlight.

Multi-omics approach to understand the impact of sun exposure on an in vitro skin ecosystem and evaluate a new broad-spectrum sunscreen.

A reconstructed human epidermal model (RHE) colonized with human microbiota and sebum was developed to reproduce the complexity of the skin ecosystem in vitro. The RHE model was exposed to simulated solar radiation (SSR) with or without SPF50+ sunscreen (with UVB, UVA, long-UVA, and visible light protection). Structural identification of discriminant metabolites was acquired by nuclear magnetic resonance and metabolomic fingerprints were identified using reverse phase-ultra high-performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry, followed by pathway enrichment analysis. Over 50 metabolites were significantly altered by SSR (p < 0.05, log2 values), showing high skin oxidative stress (glutathione and purine pathways, urea cycle) and altered skin microbiota (branched-chain amino acid cycle and tryptophan pathway). 16S and internal transcribed spacer rRNA sequencing showed the relative abundance of various bacteria and fungi altered by SSR. This study identified highly accurate metabolomic fingerprints and metagenomic modifications of sun-exposed skin to help elucidate the interactions between the skin and its microbiota. Application of SPF50+ sunscreen protected the skin ecosystem model from the deleterious effects of SSR and preserved the physiological interactions within the skin ecosystem. These innovative technologies could thus be used to evaluate the effectiveness of sunscreen.

Generating Functional and Highly Proliferative Melanocytes Derived from Human Pluripotent Stem Cells: A Promising Tool for Biotherapeutic Approaches to Treat Skin Pigmentation Disorders.

Melanocytes are essential for skin homeostasis and protection, and their loss or misfunction leads to a wide spectrum of diseases. Cell therapy utilizing autologous melanocytes has been used for years as an adjunct treatment for hypopigmentary disorders such as vitiligo. However, these approaches are hindered by the poor proliferative capacity of melanocytes obtained from skin biopsies. Recent advances in the field of human pluripotent stem cells have fueled the prospect of generating melanocytes. Here, we have developed a well-characterized method to produce a pure and homogenous population of functional and proliferative melanocytes. The genetic stability and potential transformation of melanocytes from pluripotent stem cells have been evaluated over time during the in vitro culture process. Thanks to transcriptomic analysis, the molecular signatures all along the differentiation protocol have been characterized, providing a solid basis for standardizing the protocol. Altogether, our results promise meaningful, broadly applicable, and longer-lasting advances for pigmentation disorders and open perspectives for innovative biotherapies for pigment disorders.

Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts.

OBJECTIVE: Skin ageing is linked to the accumulation of senescent cells and a "senescence-associated secretory phenotype" (SASP). SASP factors include chemokines, cytokines, and small extracellular vesicles (EVs) containing miRNAs. We characterized SASP profile markers in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and evaluated the effect of Haritaki fruit extract on these senescence markers. METHODS: Senescence was induced in HDFs by ionizing radiation (X ray), followed by 14 days of culture. Parallel incubations included fibroblasts treated for 12 days with 10 or 100 µg/mL Haritaki (a standardized extract of Terminalia chebula fruit). Senescence was assessed on Day 14 according to cell morphology, ß-galactosidase activity, RT-qPCR measurement of SASP genes, as well as semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) expression of miRNAs contained in EVs isolated from the medium. The size and distribution of EVs were measured by Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis. RESULTS: Human dermal fibroblasts exhibited a senescent phenotype 14 days after ionizing-radiation, demonstrated by a flattened and irregular shape, increased ß-galactosidase activity and over-expression of SASP genes. CSF3, CXCL1, IL1ß, IL6 and IL8 genes were increased by 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% and 293%, respectively. The cell cycle inhibitor, CDKN1A, was increased by 357%, while COL1A1, was decreased by 56% and MMP1 was increased by 293%. NTA analysis of the EVs size distribution indicated a mix of exosomes (45-100 nm) and microvesicles (100-405 nm). miRNA expression in EVs was increased in senescent fibroblasts. miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p and miR 186-5p were increased in senescent HDF by 4.17-, 2.43-, 1.17-, 2.01, 12.5-fold, respectively. Incubation of senescent fibroblasts with Haritaki extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA levels and miRNA expression in EVs. CONCLUSION: Haritaki strongly reduced SASP expression and EV-shuttled miRNAs in senescent fibroblasts. These results indicate that Haritaki has strong senomorphic properties and may be a promising ingredient for the development of new anti-ageing dermo-cosmetic products by inhibiting deleterious effects of senescent cells.

OBJECTIF: Le vieillissement cutané est lié à l'accumulation de cellules sénescentes et à un « phénotype sécrétoire associé à la sénescence ¼ (SASP). Le SASP est constitué de chimiokines, cytokines et de petites vésicules extracellulaires (VE) contenant des miARN. Nous avons caractérisé les marqueurs du SASP dans des fibroblastes dermiques humains normaux (HDF) et évalué l'effet d'un extrait de fruit d'Haritaki sur ces marqueurs de la sénescence. MÉTHODES: La sénescence a été induite dans les HDF par des rayonnements ionisants (rayons X), suivis de 14 jours de culture. Parallèlement, des HDF ont été traités pendant 12 jours avec 10 ou 100 µg/mL d'Haritaki (un extrait standardisé de fruit de Terminalia chebula). La sénescence a été évaluée au jour 14 en fonction de la morphologie cellulaire, de l'activité ß-galactosidase, de la mesure des gènes du SASP par RT-PCR, ainsi que de l'expression semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) des miARN contenus dans les VE isolées du milieu. La taille et la distribution des VE ont été mesurées par Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA). RÉSULTATS: Les HDF ont présenté un phénotype sénescent 14 jours après le rayonnement ionisant, en effet, ils avaient une forme aplatie et irrégulière, une activité ß-galactosidase accrue et une surexpression des gènes du SASP. Les ARNm de CSF3, CXCL1, IL1ß, IL6 et IL8 ont été augmentés de 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% et 293%, respectivement. L'inhibiteur du cycle cellulaire, CDKN1A, a été augmenté de 357%, tandis que le COL1A1 a diminué de 56% et la MMP1 a augmenté de 293%. L'analyse NTA de la distribution de taille des VE a montré un mélange d'exosomes (45-100 nm) et de microvésicules (100-405 nm). L'expression des miARN dans les VE a augmenté dans les fibroblastes sénescents. Les miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p et miR 186-5p ont été augmentés dans le HDF sénescent de, respectivement, 4,17-, 2,43-, 1,17-, 2,01 et 12,5- fois. L'incubation de fibroblastes sénescents avec l'extrait de Haritaki a fortement diminué les niveaux d'ARNm du SASP et l'expression de miARN dans les VE. CONCLUSION: L'extrait d'Haritaki a fortement réduit l'expression du SASP et de miARN contenus dans les VE des fibroblastes sénescents. Ces résultats indiquent que Haritaki possède de fortes propriétés sénomorphiques et pourrait être un ingrédient prometteur pour le développement de nouveaux produits dermo-cosmétiques anti-âge en inhibant les effets délétères des cellules sénescentes.

Evaluation of a Novel Skin Emollient Cream on Skin Lipidome and Lipid Organization.

INTRODUCTION: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was measured. METHODS: The spatial organization of the cream and the isolated SC intercellular matrix were studied using X-ray diffraction. The inter-bilayer distances in the multi-lamellar lipid structures and lattice type were analyzed using small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), respectively. Lipidomic analysis using shotgun lipidomics was performed on RHE models to quantify CER classes and chain lengths. This technology enables the analysis of thousands of lipids in a single biological sample. RESULTS: The crystallized components of the cream are lipids, which were mainly packed in orthorhombic lattices, as well as hexagonal lattices and were similar to the SC structure. The cream penetrated the SC but did not alter the WAXS profile. It increased the amount of higher carbon number CERs (>42 carbons) and decreased lower carbon number CERs (<42 carbons). All chain length of CERs and acyl-CER classes (CER EOS, EOH, EOP, EOdS) were increased as the total CER classes. A decrease of the CER C34 for hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated CERs was also observed. The cream altered the S and P CER forms (increased the NP/NS and AP/AS ratios), indicating it could reduce the relative feedback mechanism observed in inflammatory pathologies, for example, atopic dermatitis. The cream increased CER NP, which is decreased in dry skin. CONCLUSION: G/P-emollient cream may be beneficial for skin pathologies by modifying SC lipids, balancing CER levels and ratios, and improving the barrier function. Importantly, the cream structure mimics that of the SC and penetrated the lower SC layers without compromising its lamellar structure.

Recent advances in understanding inflammatory acne: Deciphering the relationship between Cutibacterium acnes and Th17 inflammatory pathway.

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous units. Four factors contribute to acne: hyperseborrhea and dysseborrhea, follicular hyperkeratinisation, skin microbiome dysbiosis and local immuno-inflammation. Recent key studies have highlighted a better understanding of the important role of Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) in the development of acne. Three major findings in the last decade include: (1) the ability of C. acnes to self-organize in a biofilm associated with a more virulent activity, (2) the loss of the C. acnes phylotype diversity and (3) the central role of the Th17 pathway in acne inflammation. Indeed, there is a close link between C. acnes and the activation of the Th17 immuno-inflammatory pathway at the initiation of acne development. These mechanisms are directly linked to the loss of C. acnes phylotype diversity during acne, with a predominance of the pro-pathogenic phylotype IA1. This specifically contributes to the induction of the Th17-mediated immuno-inflammatory response involving skin cells, such as keratinocytes, monocytes and sebocytes. These advancements have led to new insights into the underlying mechanisms which can be harnessed to develop novel treatments and diagnostic biomarkers. A major disadvantage of traditional treatment with topical antibiotics is that they induce cutaneous dysbiosis and antimicrobial resistance. Thus, future treatments would no longer aim to 'kill' C. acnes, but to maintain the skin microbiota balance allowing for tissue homeostasis, specifically, the restoration of C. acnes phylotype diversity. Here, we provide an overview of some of the key processes involved in the pathogenesis of acne, with a focus on the prominent role of C. acnes and the Th17-inflammatory pathways involved.

Change in Cutibacterium acnes phylotype abundance and improvement of clinical parameters using a new dermocosmetic product containing Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts in patients with acne vulgaris.

BACKGROUND: Acne is a multifactorial chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, where Cutibacterium acnes plays a main role. Recent papers demonstrated that specific C. acnes phylotypes were correlated with the severity of inflammatory acne and reported a specific loss of C. acnes phylotype diversity in this context. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this exploratory study was to evaluate the efficacy of a new dermocosmetic product containing Myrtus communis and Celastrol-enriched plant cell culture extracts on C. acnes phylotype abundance and clinical parameters in subjects with mild to moderate acne vulgaris. METHODS: Cutibacterium acnes phylotype diversity was evaluated by single-locus sequence typing sequencing on the nonlesional areas of the forehead, that is, areas excluding inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules) on day 1 (D1) and after 56 days (D57) of twice daily application of the dermocosmetic product on the whole face. Clinical efficacy on acne was also assessed by acne lesion counting and Global Evaluation Acne (GEA) score on D1 and D57. RESULTS: Our study confirmed the link between the presence of some C. acnes phylotypes and acne severity. The dermocosmetic cream was linked to a positive impact on C. acnes phylotypes: a significant decrease in pro-pathogen phylotype IC and increase in nonpathogen phylotype IB were observed in the nonlesional areas of acne on D57 compared to D1. In parallel, the clinical results showed a significant decrease in inflammatory and comedonal acne lesions and a significant improvement in the acne severity according to the GEA score. CONCLUSIONS: This study showed that the application of a new dermocosmetic product containing M. communis and Celastrol-enriched plant cell culture extracts was linked to a change in the C. acnes phylotype abundance and an improvement in acne severity.

Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts control together the pivotal role of Cutibacterium acnes and inflammatory pathways in acne.

INTRODUCTION: Acne is a multifactorial inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit in which Cutibacterium acnes is one of the main triggers. A strong predominance of C. acnes phylotype IA1 is present in acne skin with higher biofilm organization and virulence, promoting local immuno-inflammation, especially the Th17 pathway. OBJECTIVES: We evaluated the single and combined pharmacological properties of the plant extracts, Myrtus communis (Myrtacine®) and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture (CEE) extracts on the C. acnes/Th17 pathway. METHODS: The effect of Myrtacine® on the virulence of C. acnes phylotype IA1 was quantified according to the expression of several related genes. The activity of Myrtacine® and CEE on the inflammatory cascade was assessed using monocytes-derived dendritic cells (Mo-DC) stimulated with membranes or biofilms of the C. acnes phylotype IA1. Finally, the effect of CEE on the Th17 pathway was studied using C. acnes stimulated sebocyte 2D cultures and 3D skin tissue models containing preactivated Th17 cells. RESULTS: Myrtacine® had an anti-virulence effect, evident as a significant and strong inhibition of the expression of several virulence factor genes by 60%-95% compared to untreated controls. Myrtacine® and CEE significantly inhibited proinflammatory cytokine (IL-6, IL-8, IL-12p40 and TNF-α) production by Mo-DC in response to C. acnes phylotype IA1. Interestingly, these two ingredients resulted in synergistic inhibition of most cytokines when used in combination. Finally, we demonstrated an inhibitory effect of CEE, in solution or formulated at 0.3%, specifically on IL-17 release by Th17 lymphocytes in a C. acnes-stimulated sebocyte 2D cultures and by Th17-lymphocytes integrated in a 3D skin models. CONCLUSIONS: 2D and 3D models were developed to represent relevant and specific pathways involved in acne. Myrtacine® and CEE were shown to alter one or more of these pathways, indicating their potential beneficial effects on this disease.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin.

OBJECTIVE: Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations. METHODS: Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase. RESULTS: Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions. CONCLUSION: A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

OBJECTIF: Les effets délétères des polluants et des rayonnements ultraviolets au niveau cutané peau peuvent être atténués avec des formulations contenant des antioxydants. Cependant, ceux-ci peuvent présenter des inconvénients comme une instabilité chimique, une photodégradation, une faible biodisponibilité ou une faible activité biologique. Nous avons évalué deux formulations commerciales: l'une optimisée pour stabiliser et libérer de l'acide ascorbique (AA) à 15 % et l'autre contenant une forme conjugué de l'AA, à savoir l'acide ascorbique 2-glucoside (AA2G), à 1.8% et formulée à un pH physiologique. Nous avons comparé le passage percutané, les effets antioxydants et la stabilité chimique de l'AA2G avec l'AA dans leurs formulations respectives. MÉTHODES: Le passage percutané a été évalué avec des explants de peau humaine maintenus en survie et le stress oxydatif a été évalué à l'aide d'un modèle d'épiderme reconstruit humain (RHE) en mesurant les niveaux de malondialdéhyde (MDA), de superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et de catalase. RÉSULTATS: L'AA2G a été complètement métabolisé en AA par la peau avant d'atteintre le compartiment récepteur. Le composé parent et l'AA ont été retrouvé dans la peau, indiquant qu'une réserve d'AA2G était présente pour une libération prolongée. Pour l'AA2G et l'AA, le flux maximal d'équivalents AA était à 12 h, avec une absorption continue sur 24 h. La quantité absolue en µg était plus élevée dans la peau après application de la formulation contenant 15% d'AA qu'après application de la formule contenant 1.8% d'AA2G. Cela peut suggérer un effet antioxydant plus important ; cependant, selon les trois paramètres évalués pour le stress oxydatif, l'effet protecteur de l'AA et de l'AA2G était similaire. Contrairement à l'AA, l'AA2G est chimiquement plus stable dans des conditions de stockage. CONCLUSION: Une concentration plus faible d'AA2G est aussi efficace que le métabolite actif, l'AA, en termes d'effets antioxydants. L'AA2G est chimiquement plus stable et peut être appliqué à une concentration inférieure à l'AA, évitant ainsi le besoin d'une formulation acide avec un pH inférieur à 3.5.

Safety assessment of cosmetics by read across applied to metabolomics data of in vitro skin and liver models.

As a result of the cosmetics testing ban, safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients must now be conducted using animal-free methods. A common approach is read across, which is mainly based on structural similarities but can also be conducted using biological endpoints. Here, metabolomics was used to assess biological effects to enable a read across between a candidate cosmetic ingredient, DIV665, only studied using in vitro assays, and a structurally similar reference compound, PA102, previously investigated using traditional in vivo toxicity methods. The (1) cutaneous distribution after topical application, (2) skin metabolism, (3) liver metabolism and (4) effect on the intracellular metabolomic profiles of in vitro skin and hepatic models, SkinEthic®RHE model and HepaRG® cells were investigated. The compounds exhibited similar skin penetration and skin and liver metabolism, with small differences attributed to their physicochemical properties. The effects of both compounds on the metabolome of RHE and HepaRG® cells were similarly small, both in terms of the metabolites modulated and the magnitude of changes. The patterns of metabolome changes did not fit with any known signature relating to a mode of action known to be linked to liver toxicity e.g. modification of the Krebs cycle, urea synthesis and lipid metabolism, were more reflective of transient adaptive responses. Overall, these studies indicate that PA102 is biologically similar to DIV665, allowing read across of safety endpoints, such as in vivo sub-chronic (but not reproduction toxicity) studies, for the former to be applied to DIV665. Based on this, in the absence of animal data (which is prohibited for new chemicals), it could be concluded that DIV665 applied according to the consumer topical use scenario, is similar to PA102, and is predicted to exhibit low local skin and systemic toxicity.

Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties.

OBJECTIVE: We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. METHODS: After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. RESULTS: The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. CONCLUSION: These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.

OBJECTIF: Nous avons étudié la cinétique de pénétration cutanée et les propriétés antioxydantes d'une formulation solaire contenant deux antioxydants, l'oxothiazolidine (OTZ) et le δ-tocophéryl glucoside (DTG). L'OTZ se transforme directement en taurine en présence de stress oxydant sans l'action des enzymes cutanées, tandis que le DTG est métabolisé par les enzymes cutanées pour libérer le δ-tocophérol qui est la molécule ayant les propriétés antioxydantes. MÉTHODES: Après application topique sur un modèle d'épiderme humain reconstruit dérivé de follicules pileux (RHE), suivi d'une irradiation solaire, la cinétique de biodisponibilité et les réponses antioxydantes de ces deux composés ont été mesurées sur 24 h. Les marqueurs du stress oxydatif étaient la production de malondialdéhyde (MDA), l'activité de la superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et de la catalase. RÉSULTATS: Les deux antioxydants ont des profils de biodisponibilité différents. L'OTZ pénètre rapidement dans la peau, tandis que le DTG pénètre lentement et est biotransformé par les enzymes cutanés pour libérer le δ-tocophérol. Par rapport à l'OTZ seul, la protection oxydante sur les niveaux de MDA et les activités SOD et catalase était plus élevée lorsque le DTG était utilisé seul ou en association avec OTZ. Lorsqu'il est utilisé en combinaison, le degré de protection augmente au cours du temps et atteint son maximum 2h post-irradiation et reste constant durant 24 h. Le DTG pénètre lentement dans la peau et est présent dans la peau durant 24h post-irradiation, permettant ainsi un apport lent mais constant de δ-tocophérol. En revanche, la protection oxydante via l'OTZ est immédiate mais de courte durée en raison de sa pénétration rapide à travers le RHE. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats indiquent une action de protection solaire complémentaire de l'OTZ et du DTG avec une absorption immédiate d'OTZ juste après l'application topique de la formulation, et une libération cutanée prolongée de δ-tocophérol grâce à la pénétration et la métabolisation plus lentes du DTG.

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation.

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs. RESULTS: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety. CONCLUSION: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

Structural and Biomechanical Characterization of a Scaffold-Free Skin Equivalent Model via Biophysical Methods.

AIMS: Among in vitro skin models, the scaffold-free skin equivalent (SFSE), without exogenous material, is interesting for pharmacotoxicological studies. Our aim was to adapt in vivo biophysical methods to study the structure, thickness, and extracellular matrix of our in vitro model without any chemical fixation needed as for histology. METHODS: We evaluated 3 batches of SFSE and characterized them by histology, transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and immunofluorescence. In parallel, we investigated 3 biophysical methods classically used for in vivo evaluation, optical coherence tomography (OCT), and laser scanning microscopy (LSM) imaging devices as well as the cutometer suction to study the biomechanical properties. RESULTS: OCT allowed the evaluation of SFSE total thickness and its different compartments. LSM has a greater resolution enabling an evaluation at the cell scale and the orientation of collagen fibers. The viscoelasticity measurement by cutometry was possible on our thin skin model and might be linked with mature collagen bundles visible in TEM and LSM and with elastic fibers seen in immunofluorescence. CONCLUSION: Our data demonstrated the simplicity and sensitivity of these different in vivo biophysical devices on our thin skin model. These noninvasive tools allow to study the morphology and the biomechanics of in vitro models.

Identification of lipids of the stratum corneum by high performance thin layer chromatography and mass spectrometry.

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the most important skin barrier against exogenous physical and chemical effects, in addition to protecting against dehydration. Ceramides are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum and play an important role in the barrier function of mammalian skin. Ceramides are sphingolipids consisting of sphingoid bases linked to fatty acids by an amide bond. Typical sphingoid bases in the skin are composed of dihydrosphingosine, sphingosine, phytosphingosine, and 6-hydroxysphingosine, and the fatty acid acyl chains are composed of non-hydroxy fatty acid, α-hydroxy fatty acid, ω-hydroxy fatty acid, and esterified ω-hydroxy fatty acid. Analytical methods, such as gas chromatography/mass spectrometry, high performance thin layer chromatography with UV detection, and liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry, have been developed for the identification and quantification of ceramides in the stratum corneum. However, only a few publications relate to the mass fragmentation patterns specific to ceramide types to determine the structure of skin ceramides. Moreover, these studies provide very limited structural information and only for some ceramides. Therefore, the aim of our study was to develop a quick and easy method of quantification of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids by high performance thin layer chromatography with ultraviolet detection. High performance thin layer chromatography with ultraviolet detection was also coupled with mass spectrometry using negative ionization by electrospray and tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) for identification of ceramides' structure.

Effects of dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pongamia oil and hesperidin methyl chalcone on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea is a chronic facial skin disorder characterized by inflammation and vascular abnormalities. The pathophysiology of rosacea involves increased activation of the capsaicin receptor, TRPV1, the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) pathway, and cathelicidin LL-37, MMP-9, and KLKs. We evaluated the activity of four compounds (dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol [BCH; TRP-regulin®], pongamia oil, and hesperidin methyl chalcone [HMC]) on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The anti-inflammatory activity of dextran sulfate was evaluated on PGE2 production after PMA stimulation of NCTC-2544 keratinocytes, and on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) after proinflammatory stimulation to mimic a rosacea environment. The anti-angiogenic activity of dextran sulfate was measured by analyzing pseudotube formation in co-cultured human microvascular endothelial cells/normal human dermal fibroblasts. HMC modulation of vascular responses and IL-8 cytokine production after SP stimulation was evaluated in human skin explants. We also assessed the effect of BCH on TRPV1 activation, and the effect of combined BCH and pongamia oil on the inflammatory response of NHEKs. RESULTS: Dextran sulfate strongly and significantly inhibited PMA-induced PGE2 production, inhibited KLK5 and MMP-9 mRNA expression, and IL-8, IL-1α and VEGF production, and displayed a highly significant inhibitory effect on VEGF-induced pseudotube formation. In SP-stimulated human skin explants, HMC significantly decreased the proportion of dilated vessels, total vessel area, and IL-8 production. BCH significantly and dose-dependently inhibited TRPV1 activation, and BCH and pongamia oil inhibited CXCL1 and CXCL6 mRNA expression and IL-8 production in NHEKs. Combined BCH/pongamia oil inhibited IL-8 production synergistically. CONCLUSION: These in vitro results showed that dextran sulfate, BCH, pongamia oil and HMC, possess complementary soothing and anti-redness properties, supporting their combination in Avène redness-relief cosmetic products for sensitive skin prone to redness, and for topical adjunctive rosacea treatment.

Biphasic influence of Staphylococcus aureus on human epidermal tight junctions.

Bacterial infections (e.g., with Staphylococcus aureus) are serious problems in skin with a compromised barrier, such as in patients with atopic dermatitis. Previously, it was shown that tight junction (TJ) proteins are influenced by staphylococcal infection, and TJ function is impaired after infection of the keratinocyte cell line HaCaT. However, functional studies in cells or models more similar to human skin are missing. Therefore, we investigated bacterial colonialization and infection with live S. aureus in primary human keratinocytes and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). We show that short-term inoculation results in increased TJ barrier function-which could not be seen in HaCaT cells-hinting at an early protective effect. This is accompanied by occludin phosphorylation and sustained localization of occludin and claudin-4 at cell membranes. Long-term incubation resulted in decreased presence of claudin-1 and claudin-4 at cell membranes and decreased TJ barrier function. The agr regulon of S. aureus plays a role in the increasing but not in the decreasing effect. Proinflammatory cytokines, which are produced as a result of S. aureus inoculation, influence both phases. In summary, we show here that S. aureus can have short-term promoting effects on the TJ barrier, while in the long term it results in disturbance of TJs.

Characterization of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes of a reconstructed human epidermal model from adult hair follicles.

In this study, a comprehensive characterization of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) based on gene expression and enzyme functionality was made in a reconstructed skin epidermal model derived from the outer root sheath (ORS) of hair follicles (ORS-RHE). The ORS-RHE model XME gene profile was consistent with native human skin. Cytochromes P450 (CYPs) consistently reported to be detected in native human skin were also present at the gene level in the ORS-RHE model. The highest Phase I XME gene expression levels were observed for alcohol/aldehyde dehydrogenases and (carboxyl) esterases. The model was responsive to the CYP inducers, 3-methylcholanthrene (3-MC) and ß-naphthoflavone (ßNF) after topical and systemic applications, evident at the gene and enzyme activity level. Phase II XME levels were generally higher than those of Phase I XMEs, the highest levels were GSTs and transferases, including NAT1. The presence of functional CYPs, UGTs and SULTs was confirmed by incubating the models with 7-ethoxycoumarin, testosterone, benzo(a)pyrene and 3-MC, all of which were rapidly metabolized within 24h after topical application. The extent of metabolism was dependent on saturable and non-saturable metabolism by the XMEs and on the residence time within the model. In conclusion, the ORS-RHE model expresses a number of Phase I and II XMEs, some of which may be induced by AhR ligands. Functional XME activities were also demonstrated using systemic or topical application routes, supporting their use in cutaneous metabolism studies. Such a reproducible model will be of interest when evaluating the cutaneous metabolism and potential toxicity of innovative dermo-cosmetic ingredients.

Standardization of an in vitro Model for Evaluating the Bioavailability of Topically Applied Compounds on Damaged Skin: Application to Sunscreen Analysis.

BACKGROUND: Information is lacking on the dermal penetration of topically applied formulations on in vitro skin models, under conditions where the stratum corneum (SC) is damaged. Therefore, we have developed a standardized in vitro barrier-disrupted skin model using tape stripping. METHODS: Different tape stripping conditions were evaluated using histology, transepidermal water loss, infrared densitometry, and caffeine absorption. RESULTS: The effects of tape stripping were comparable using pig and human skin. Optimized conditions were used to test the effect of SC damage and UV irradiation on the absorption of an UV filter combination present in a sunscreen. The bioavailability of the filters was extremely low regardless of the extent of skin damage, suggesting bioavailability would not be increased if the consumer applied the sunscreen to sun-damaged skin. CONCLUSION: This standardized in vitro methodology using pig or human skin for damaged skin will add valuable information for the safety assessment of topically applied products.

A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies.

INTRODUCTION: Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic. RESULTS: When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (fibrillin 2, fibulin 1 and 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 2) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (integrin b1, paxillin and actin a2). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (p<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated. CONCLUSION: The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.